The best things to do in Bordeaux
Conde Nast Traveller – July, 2024
The loveliest things to do in Bordeaux, the city of wine
Bordeaux is synonymous with the famed French wine, but its joie de vivre cannot be bottled. It brims with historic monuments, bustling markets, attractive museums and boutique art shops that are as impressively stocked as the city's galleries. The Old Town, Vieux Bordeaux, is a charming neighbourhood to explore, a place that blends the architecture of grand vintage buildings with contemporary wine bars where one can linger long after the last drop. On a trip to this world capital of wine, cups will runneth over – here are the very best things to do in Bordeaux.
Find the fairytale towers
A visit to Vieux Bordeaux is best approached as it would have been centuries ago – through the defensive site of rue du Palais. Here, in the 15th century, the Porte Chailou was built as a testament to King Charles VIII’s conquest of the Kingdom of Naples. Inspired by his campaign in Italy, it is a Gothic-Renaissance-style building with tall turrets and castle windows looking out to sweeping sea views. Stop by the city’s Grosse Cloche belfry – its bell, named Armande-Louise, was cast in 1775 and still rings at noon on the first Sunday of each month and for special occasions. While the Grosse Cloche is a charming sight on rue Saint-James (a street filled with boutiques, cafés and trays of cannelé – the region’s cute, round rum-infused cakes), it was once used to enforce public order – visitors can still view its dungeons today.
Cruise along the River Garonne
One of the best ways to get the lay of a new land is from the water. The Garonner River has long been essential for the free flow of products, ideas, and, of course, wine. Most boat tours take off from the city pier in front of the Royal Square, known as Place de la Bourse, which is reflected in the majestic Miroir d’Eau. Excursions cruise past Napoleon’s Pont de Pierre bridge and the Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas suspension bridge, which connect the left and right banks of the city. Companies, including Yacht de Bordeaux, offer a glass of wine and a cannelé along the way. Most end near the Pont d’Aquitaine, with a gleaming view of the Cité du Vin. Those who venture further will see the meeting of the Garonne with the Gironde, glide past the Vauban fortifications from the reign of King Louis XIV, and – eventually – reach the vineyards of the famed Blaye and Médoc regions.
Website: yachtdebordeaux.com
Go on a sensory wine experience at the Citè du Vin
A swirl of glass and metal architecture, Bordeaux’s wine museum is as beautiful as it is fascinating. The Cité du Vin is the world’s first interactive wine museum – but more than that, it's a cultural destination with workshops, permanent (and recently updated) collections, restaurants (Le 7 and Halles de Bacalan), and the Latitude20 wine library and store. Visitors can also book in for Via Sensoria, a sensory tasting experience where a sommelier walks you through four separate presentations of the seasons and the wines produced by each. At the end of each visit, guests are invited to enjoy a drink at the Belvedere observation deck and bar under a chandelier made of thousands of wine bottles.
Address: 134 Quai de Bacalan, 33300 Bordeaux, France
Website: laciteduvin.com
Visit the markets
The soul of many towns or villages in France is the local markets. While Bordeaux is a larger city, its markets bring together the best of the region. For early Sunday risers, Pouyanne Market offers the freshest and sweetest fruit, vegetables and flowers in the chic neighbourhood of St. Genès. On Wednesdays and Sundays, the more central Pey Berland Marker allows a spot of sight-seeing as well as shopping – it’s just in front of the renowned Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux and the foot of the Bell Tower, which you can climb for glorious city views. The most popular produce market (known affectionately as the Belly of Bordeaux) is Marché Capuçins. The indoor market is open every day except Monday and spills out onto the surrounding streets, with traders selling fresh herbs and artisan cheeses – be sure to try O’Billog’s folded crepes, oozing with goat cheese and honey.
Amble through the Golden Triangle
Bordeaux’s Triangle d’Or (or Golden Triangle) refers to a trinity of convents surrounding the baroque Notre-Dame church. On one side is the Place de la Comédie, where the Grand Théâtre devotes itself to a neoclassical architectural style and a cast of statues playing muses and goddesses. Past the stately mansions lies Place Tourny, where a statue of the Marquis presides over a pleasant shopping street, and a short stroll away is the Monument aux Girondins – a fountain that flows freely over bronze sea horses. Completing the trifecta is Place Gambetta, where the historic Porte Dijeaux gate can be enjoyed from all angles, including the marvellous Bistrot Marcel on rue des Remparts.
Shop the Chartrons district
While Bordeaux is home to the longest pedestrianised shopping street in Europe (the rue Sainte Catherine), it is best to get off the beaten track for more unique, independent boutiques. Chartrons is an ancient 14th-century neighbourhood built around the still resplendent Chartreux Abbey, where the riverfront ripples on one side and the peaceful birdsong of the Jardin Public floats across the other – plus there's plenty of shopping in between. The concept stores to visit here are Mat Green for conscious fashion; PH7 for French-Japanese decor, and Do you speak français? for stationary and gifts. Several antique stores and collectives are also on the main rue Notre-Dame, including Antiques Pipat, Viviane Morier and Village Notre-Dame. On Sundays, the Marché des Chartrons opens just one street over. Fortunately, there are many opportunities to refuel between shops, whether you choose the well-loved local Chez Dupont, organic bistrot Casa Gaia, or the Michelin-star restaurant Maison Nouvelle.
Hop around the city's museums
Start at the Musee des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts), which houses a permanent collection of masterpieces from the 15th to the 20th century. Nearby, its Galerie displays timely exhibitions, with a current focus on the Impressionists. A short walk away is rue Bouffard, which has some of Bordeaux’s finest antique collectors and dealers. The Musée des Arts décoratifs et du Design (Museum of Decorative Arts and Design) is closed but shuttered until 2025 for refurbishment – although you can stop by the contemporary art museum CAPC, which has created a space to temporarily showcase some of the museum’s objet d’art. The rest of CAPC is also worth a visit, with fascinating installations between its grand warehouse archways. History buffs should head to the Musée d’Aquitaine, which tells the story of the region, touching on everything from the life of Eleanor of Aquitaine to the effects of the slave trade.
Visit Bordeaux's best wine bars
There is no better way to unwind after a day of exploring Bordeaux than at a wine bar. The pick of the bunch is Le Bar à Vin, located in the headquarters of the Bordeaux Wine Council, opposite the Grand Théâtre. It is a destination in itself, with interior walls shaped like a ship’s prow, an Aubusson wine-themed tapestry commissioned by French printmaker Marc Saint-Saëns and stained glass windows by decorative artist René Buthaud. At the bar, taste-test your way through Bordeaux wines by the glass, from bold reds and sweet whites to claret rosés and sparkling crémants. Plates of local cheeses, cold meats and chocolates are available as accompaniments. For a more casual affair, the nearby Le Bistro du Fromager offers an exceptional range of wines and unpretentious service, with small plates and meat and cheese platters on the blackboards. While not technically a wine bar, Cousin & Compagnie – across the Place du Parlement – offers a selection of organic, biodynamic, and natural wines to try.
Château Les Carmes Haut Brion, Bordeaux
The Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion was once an idyllic vineyard outside of town, but as the city grew around its walls, it became the only authentic winery in the heart of Bordeaux. The Château dates to the 16th century and is as picturesque as any of the great estates. It has undergone significant renovations, and a vat house designed by Philippe Starck and Luc Arsène-Henry has been added to the impressive grounds. The abstract form appears as a metal blade plunged into the terroir, said to represent the balance of finesse and elegance found in Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion’s cabernet franc. Book in advance, and round off the visit with a toast on the panoramic terrace.
Address: 20 Rue des Carmes, 33000 Bordeaux, France
Website: les-carmes-haut-brion.com
Pop to Saint-Émilion
If your appreciation for Bordeaux’s vineyards has been piqued, you will be pleased to know that one of the region’s most beautiful wine destinations is only half an hour away by train. Saint-Émilion is known for its award-winning merlot, as well as blends of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and malbec – the perfect destination for wine lovers. The vineyards all lead to the central medieval village; high on the hill with charming boutiques, cannelé cafes, and a Monolithic church, complete with a tall bell tower and underground galleries. The church is still used today for induction ceremonies for the Jurade – a winemaking brotherhood established in the 10th century.
Website: saint-emilion-tourisme.com